Sensi

"YES, CHEF."
A WORD FROM THE WOMEN OF BISTRO

And that all-female je-ne-sais-quoi

FEBRUARY 2024 - TASTE

A window on the world of Aimo and Nadia

A stone’s throw from Corso Magenta and Santa Marie delle Grazie is an Italian-style bistro that has been a jewel of design and catering since its opening in 2018. The interiors have been curated by a professional in the sector, Rossana Orlandi, who has enriched the space with the avant-garde works of art and design of her gallery. He has left his mark both in the name of the restaurant, bistRO precisely, where the capital letters are a tribute to his inspiration, and in the choice of furnishings, thanks also to the collaboration with the fashion brand Etro, which for the Home collection has designed the cushions and seats with the characteristic paisley and wallpapers and fabrics of distant inspirations. Not so far away, indeed very close, and adjacent to the bistRO, there is the Rossana Orlandi Gallery, from which the vintage pieces of the bistRO come, an extension of the exhibition space, and, in fact, it is possible to buy each piece. 

 

I enter the room and at first glance the colors appear to me. The large counter in the entrance is practically an invitation to enjoy a drink. And it is here that I am welcomed by Beatrice Perin, the maître d’. And, together with her, with a dazzling smile, the chef Sabrina Macrì.

"It's still hard for men to accept the fact that they have two women in the kitchen as superiors and not subordinates" "It's still hard for men to accept the fact that they have two women in the kitchen as superiors and not subordinates"
"It's still hard for men to accept the fact that they have two women in the kitchen as superiors and not subordinates" "It's still hard for men to accept the fact that they have two women in the kitchen as superiors and not subordinates"

Working in a world that is still strongly masculine is not easy. They tell me that, in general, it is still difficult for men to accept the fact that they have two women in the kitchen as superiors and not subordinates. The challenge is complex, but it’s much more satisfying when you achieve goals. For example, when you win over a customer who is initially reticent. Now people know that Sabrina is in the kitchen in the bistro, but some people still don’t like it so much. “Thank the chef”, “THE chef. It’s satisfying to silence them like this,” says Beatrice, who approached the world of fine dining after a long apprenticeship. Similar is the path of Sabrina, who has worked with many chefs before becoming one herself, the first female head chef of this bistro, since its opening.

 

I ask them what it’s like to be a woman in an industry that is often dominated by men. The key is to put yourself in the shoes of the warriors. That doesn’t mean being untouchable, but continuing despite all the no’s. And it also means being independent. “Fighting, suffering, bleeding and still being here” or even “riding a little in silence and knocking down so many toads. It all comes back anyway.”

Beatrice and Sabrina’s beautiful combo of opposites that work, united by an idiosyncrasy: impatience with the mythical figure of the cursed chef, in the wake of Pierre White, a tattooed male who lives night and day in the kitchen.

Any advice for beginners? Sabrina emphasizes passion, never giving up. Beatrice focuses on experience and the relationship with the public: “The best thing is to be able to change the mood of people who maybe come here angry or with bad vibes. You have to be a bit of a psychologist and understand who you have in front of you, build a relationship, otherwise how could they trust you when you tell them something? Serving people is a feeling that gives me a lot of peace. For me, as a maître, wine should never be missing from the table. Wine has always been present in our culture.”

Courses, tablecloths, glasses, plates, crockery. You have to be very careful in the kitchen, but also be decisive, balance is a key point. And, above all, Beatrice confesses to me, “the glass senses your feelings. If I’m going to be the other side of my head while I’m adjusting the glasses, I often break them.” The same thing happens in the kitchen. So the secret is to focus on the present, on the here and now, on the risotto we are creating, on the mise en place we are perfecting.

 

When I ask her to tell me about the menu, Sabrina gets excited, her eyes sparkle, she tells me that she doesn’t like to beat around the bush: “I look for taste in simple things. I don’t like to name dishes. I let them talk. I don’t like powders and foams. Today, it is believed that people want to be amazed with wow and elaborate effects, but this is not the case. Just do one simple thing, and if you impress the customer like that, then you’ve won. There’s nothing secret about it: I really like old cooking, I like to cook legumes in earthenware and the seasonality of the products. In this period, for example, we have turnip greens, cauliflower, cardoncelli mushrooms. My passion is working with vegetables, people are also opening up to this concept and asking for it. I would like plant-based cuisine to become more and more popular and to be associated with my name as well. For me, wonder is the thought of making a preparation linked to roots, to the past and to personal experience. In this sense, food allows you to go back in time.”

After the chat, it is clear why bistRO is an adventure of the senses. And as I look around, the view lingers on the room, which changes even if Rossana Orlandi comes to lunch and moves a flower. The perfect demonstration of that all-female je-ne-sais-quoi.

by Alessandra Busacca
Source IG @aimoenadia
Source IG @aimoenadia
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