
WOMEN WARRIORS? CULTURED AND GOOD AT DISSIMULATION
CULTURED AND GOOD AT CONCEALING
Warrior women for Adriana Mulassano
FEBRUARY 2024 - Talks

"From how you approach life, society, your work: from that you can tell if you have a warrior spirit or not. It's a matter of drives, you have them or not. I know a lot of renunciators. People who have put everything away: their pride, their dignity, their ability to react."
Adriana Mulassano
Cultured and good at dissembling. Mothers with children to feed or old and tough. Warrior women for Adriana Mulassano
The first time I saw Adriana Mulassano I was ignorant, as one can afford to be only at twenty, and I was practically unaware of everything about her. I knew he was something of a myth in the fashion world and that was enough for me.
It must be said that, when I was in my twenties, computers were machines used mainly for writing texts and some research, social media was only an embryo of what they would become, and ChatGPT was not even on the horizon.
Pretending that you are also in your twenties, and that 2024 is not the prairie of infinite possibilities of knowledge that it is, I will explain in two lines who Adriana Mulassano is. For the rest, there is always the Encyclopedia of Fashion. Or the beautiful interview that Antonio Mancinelli gave her for RivistaStudio.
The first thing to highlight when talking about her is that “la Mulassano” is the personification of the concept of female empowerment ante litteram, that is, since before this ugly English-speaking word crept into every discourse on women carried out in the public square. She was, in short, someone who did not allow herself to be cornered. That she went straight on her own path (as if there were another way to find her place in the world) and that, in order to do only what she believed in, she left the newspaper she worked for, the Corriere della Sera – which did not like the “not exactly enthusiastic” reviews of some collections of advertising sponsors – thus beginning her second life: that of head of the press office of a very bright star of fashion and Made in Italy who, thanks to her, would become an icon, Giorgio Armani.
Given the premises, it is understandable why Adriana Mulassano is more than entitled to talk about warrior women. And in fact, he doesn’t have to be told twice.
“We’re old: all right, let’s take note of it and try not to become heavy old women. I still have young people who come looking for me, which means that I can still talk about everything, because I read, I get informed, I criticize, I get pissed off. I am alive. It takes a lot of strength, so for me women warriors are also the old women, the people who have to make the transition between life and death as less tragic as possible. Because it’s a bad passage. Old age is not nice either, because you remember what you were before. Physically, of people around you, they all die for you… And in fact I stopped going to funerals. I’m very little of a warrior there. Because it’s useless, and as I always say, ‘I already have to go to mine.'”
Well, just a few words are enough to understand what kind of woman Adriana Mulassano is: someone who doesn’t send her to say, who doesn’t care about the abused concept of political correctness. One that has a taste for boutade, too.
“It’s not that I’m a poor lunatic who thinks I’m eternally young. I don’t have it, but I’m an active old woman. And that’s a milestone. And to get there, you have to fight yourself. Fighting the ghosts of old age. But that’s even when you’re in your twenties. On the correction of one’s own anomalies, of one’s own defects, of one’s relationship with others: it’s all a war.”
And it is in this regard, when we ask her what she thinks of the so-called “performance society” of which there is so much talk, that Mulassano makes it very clear: “Performance is a word that I detest, I abhor. Anything that is competition on trivial things is not a performance. To become like Chiara Ferragni and then end up badly for a panettone? It takes you there, also because the cultural level is mind-boggling. The other warrior women are the ones who fight for culture. When I go to Feltrinelli to look for a book and I see these piles of Vespa or Clerici books, I am disheartened. That’s where the performances get you there.”
Adriana doesn’t want to know anything about barricaded women, who choose their battles (badly) just to conquer the social limelight. However, if we ask her for an identikit of the warrior woman, she warns: “There is no way to recognize them: it is life that makes you become like this. If you started from a young age to have critical motions towards society… Now more than anything else the difficult thing is to raise the children, those are real warriors. People who lead infamous lives to feed their children. Six million real poor. People who fight with a lot of dignity. I see them in supermarkets, you recognize them immediately. From how you approach life, society, your work: from that you can understand if you have a warrior spirit or not. It’s a matter of drives, you have them or not. I know a lot of renunciators. People who put everything away: their pride, their dignity, their ability to react.”


In fashion, the landscape is – if possible – even more bleak: “They’re not warriors there, they’re low-league fighters. Because being a warrior presupposes a spiritual level of participation, of goals, of goals. Those are constantly gnawed by envy, they have really pitiful debates on social media. Fashion has become something that no longer has any weight… And it will be at least ten years now. Creativity is not something you invent. In Italy, America and France, there is nothing relevant anymore. And in fact, Miuccia has given up fashion and is giving herself to the Fondazione Prada.”
In a corset-themed issue, the obligatory question is what the uniform of the contemporary warrior is. Nothing to do, once the 80s were over, it gradually disappeared: “First there was the glamorous warrior of Versace. Armani’s warrior on the bus – or career if you like – and Saint Laurent’s high-ranking one. Finished. Now a warrior woman had better get confused, she doesn’t want to stand out: with the media gossip that follows one another, it takes a minute to be swept away.”
And who wants to fight a battle today, for Adriana Mulassano what shirt should she wear? “That of culture, without a doubt. Restoration of a scale of cultural values. Everything comes from culture, there’s nothing you can do about it. Whatever job you do, if you don’t have a basic culture, you don’t do it well. Think about that for a moment. And instead cinema, TV, theater: they give us low-level products so we let our guard down. And you can’t become a warrior if you don’t have your guard up, because you don’t have stimuli, you don’t have something to overcome.”
Stimuli and culture: it is natural to think of criticism, fashionable but not only. The key is, to say the least, a sore one: “Publishers, not being pure, need advertising. And out of this problem come all the others. I left the Corriere on the spot because of this. It’s the curse of money: something we have the Americans to thank for and their idolatry of money… It’s the end of society. A society where you have no more drives than to make money. You don’t need a covered shoulder to make a choice like this, to decide not to sell yourself. Instead, change your job. And in fact, I stopped being a journalist. It’s a matter of choice, and, as I always say, those who don’t dare don’t use. It’s just as good now as it was twenty years ago.”
Hope for the future? Adriana Mulassano has no doubts: “One fine day this phase in which we find ourselves will end. The world is changing, we are in a period of transition, certainly a very bad one. We are hitting rock bottom, the West will become a historical relic. And Africa is already on the horizon.”
by Enrica Murru

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