FORKS AND FEMINISM

May 23, 2024

Chefs in starred kitchens

MAy 2024 - TASTE

"The women who work with us contribute to creating an extraordinary synergy within the group. This quality is also perceived by our guests, who often notice and appreciate the cohesion and positive energy of our staff."

Chef Davide Marzullo >

It is well known that the world of work in Italy is permeated by patriarchal dynamics. More and more people talk about it in the newspapers, but it is almost always women who do it, denouncing the flaws of a system in which they are still unable to fully integrate. In the world of haute cuisine, these difficulties are often a tangible daily reality: to survive an old-fashioned masculinity, women do not wear makeup, masculinize and desexualize. They do not have children so as not to lose their jobs, and they settle for positions that are inferior to their qualifications.

The work environment is impregnated with testosterone The work environment is impregnated with testosterone

Fortunately, more and more women are courageously deciding not to give in to these dynamics. Denounce. They set up their own business. They are promoters of change. But what do their male colleagues think? Is it right that they remain extraneous to the debate on an issue that, only apparently, does not concern them? We asked some Italian starred chefs to better understand, from their point of view, what the current state of starred cuisines in Italy is.

According to Chef Giuseppe Mancino of the Piccolo Principe, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in the splendid setting of the Grand Hotel Principi di Piemonte in Viareggio, the issue of female discrimination in the world of haute cuisine is a symptom of a systemic problem, which affects any workplace: “From a historical point of view, ours is a male profession, But in the last twenty years there has been a great process of openness which, like all processes concerning gender, is advancing slowly. The social and economic problems that affect the presence of women in the world of work are the same in every area, they do not only concern the kitchen. Personally, I have always worked with people, not with men or women. When I select a CV I do it regardless of gender. One trend that I have noticed, however, is that out of ten CVs of women I receive, eight are for a position as Pastry Chef».

Given that it makes us think about how women are educated and perceive themselves within a system that leads them to think of themselves as more docile than their colleagues. “The association of women with pastry,” says Francesco Brutto of the Venissa restaurant in Murano (Michelin Star and Michelin Green Star), “is linked to a system of masculinity that has always permeated the founding structures of haute cuisine. The work environment is imbued with testosterone, with a militaristic ethic that starts from language: we talk about ‘brigade’, ‘service’, ‘match'”. Terms that Brutto, together with Chef Chiara Pavan, his partner in work and life, has decided to abolish from their kitchen, made up of 50% women. “A language of this type reinforces a traditional vision of the masculine, based on strength and physical endurance, and helps to create a self-fulfilling prophecy: if the role of the chef is ‘male’, the employer is inclined to hire men, despite the fact that women are often more qualified. For a woman who works in a team that is 90% male, it is difficult not only to integrate, but also to reach leadership roles.”

Chef Olivier Piras also agrees on this point, who together with his partner, Chef Alessandra del Favero, is at the helm of the kitchen of Il Carpaccio, a Michelin-starred restaurant inside the Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris hotel. “We do a job practiced mainly by men and there are still few women who work in haute cuisine. Companies should incentivize their hiring, giving them the opportunity to take on managerial positions (also because women often have an edge). France offers a more favourable environment in terms of support policies and reduction of the wage gap than Italy, but there is still much to be done to achieve true gender equality.”

Fortunately, the new generations of chefs are taking action in this direction. This is the case of Trattoria Contemporanea (Lomazzo, Como), a Michelin Star, halfway between a starred restaurant and a start-up. According to chef Andrea Noto, “In the last eight years we have seen a greater sensitivity towards the role of women in the fine dining industry. One of the main critical issues remains the reconciliation of work and family life. Our industry is known for its hectic pace and constant commitment, which often results in very long working days. This makes it difficult for many women, and even many men, to find the right balance between work and family. I believe that the key to meeting this challenge is to promote a balance between professional and personal life. At Trattoria we foster an interchangeable team organization, which helps not only to manage individual needs, but also promotes a healthier and more inclusive corporate culture.”

Also with regard to the issue of the gender pay gap, a sore point of almost the entire Italian labor system, Trattoria Contemporanea proves to be at the forefront. “We believe that the economic value recognized to each worker should depend exclusively on the commitment, passion and dedication demonstrated,” continues Chef Christian Malatacca, “without any discrimination of sex, age or nationality. In our team, there is no pay gap between men and women for the same role.” To create a healthy and respectful working environment for everyone, women are a necessity, as Chef Davide Marzullo says, “The women who work with us contribute to creating an extraordinary synergy within the group. This quality is also perceived by our guests, who often notice and appreciate the cohesion and positive energy of our staff.”

We hope that many other chefs will notice.

by Elena Caslini

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FORKS AND FEMINISM