
THE CIRCUMFERENCE RULE
THE CIRCUMFERENCE RULE
The very rare art of millinery
APRIL 2024 - SIXTH SENSE

"I like to define lariusss as a reality, rather than a brand."
Ilaria Soncini
Coco Chanel, who opened her first boutique on Rue Cambon in Paris, is an example of how embroidery and the art of making a hat can change a woman’s life.
Founded with the aim of handing down the tradition of millinery, the ancient art of hat making, the beating heart of haute couture, the artisan reality of Ilariusss also cares about this niche heritage, whose success is all female.
Ilaria Soncini, after spending several years in Berlin, felt the need to create new concepts of headgear, and, together with Gemma and Floriana, decided to be the spokesperson for this mission. The adventure began in 2013 in Milan, where hats came to life, but also a series of proposals of great aesthetic refinement including wigs, props for shop windows, scenographic solutions, cushions, flowers for crowns and research projects in collaboration with well-known high fashion brands.
“I like to create a family atmosphere, where there is harmony and respect. – Ilaria explains to me – “Who is a mother, who needs a little more attention. At Ilariusss, each of us has our own story. But what we all have in common is an unconditional love for embroidery and millinery.”
Once a year, the team creates a collection that is not tied to seasonal canons, very free, which allows each voice to express itself, an intimate and hyper-personalized vision. “We are not a brand, we are tailor-made. We’re not in England or even in France, we’re in Italy, so we’re a bit of a set designer, a bit of an embroiderer, a bit of an artist, and we know how to build any kind of hat. Each of us has our own capacity.”
From musical shows to fashion shows, from the world of theater to scenographic productions, Ilariusss is an eclectic world full of surprises, capable of enhancing, even with just a hat, an entire look.
“The hat is like a dot, the end of a sentence, it frames a face, and opens up its beauty. I think and work a lot on form. I like to work with volumes, playing with full and empty spaces, with different materials, each of these must have its own balance. I create structures that are more or less filled. For us, form is fundamental. My job is a matter of balance: the only rule to follow is that of circumference. Everything has to fit on the head, and it has to be wearable. It doesn’t have to weigh too much, it has to be pleasant, harmonious and sartorial, a couture work.”
And Ilaria has precise ideas about what couture is:
“Couture is the highest branch of fashion. It means perfection, harmony. Perfection of embroidery and beautiful colors in terms of color. We are always learning new techniques and making sure that they are more and more identifying and richer, to show, through the collections, what we can do. When working with couture you always have to do a job in which the defect is not contemplated. The difficulty of our work is that you have to have a sensitive personality, which marries well this desire for harmony and maniacality, it is a huge challenge that requires great passion and dedication. The cleanliness of the form is what interests us.


You can cultivate talent in harmony, but you have to have a little bit of it. I have always been a very precise and organized person at work, and this often becomes a problem in my personal life. Life and work are different realities. But sometimes it’s also meditative. When I need to turn off my brain, I use my work as a meditation, for example I will start sewing or do some manual work that will give me relaxation. The stimulus of research, on the other hand, gives me adrenaline and almost gives me super power.”


The Ilariusss signature is a “heart-shaped hat”, but the atelier’s archive contains more than ten years of work. The identity of Ilariusss is simple but impactful, precisely because it plays a lot on symmetries, full and empty shapes and the carvings of the brim. And one of the keys to any project is choosing the right suppliers:
“We work with highly trained and kind suppliers, who can teach us a lot, and together we create wonders. Italian savoir faire really exists. For example, we work with a 93-year-old gentleman, who still makes wooden shapes by hand and is a sculptor, or with another who deals with pleats.”




At the end of our conversation, I’m curious to know the genius that infected Ilaria. It’s John Galliano. “He’s always inspired me and positively shocked me with his visions: his collection in the cemetery won me over forever, and I think he did it precisely because he’s a crazy creative genius, you can see he’s not afraid of anything.”
We could only ask him, the revived Mad Hatter, the conclusion of this piece: “Shouldn’t you ask: Why are you wearing a hat? What you should really ask yourself is, why don’t you wear it? How can a look be complete without a hat?”
by Alessandra Busacca
Photographer: Giorgio Codazzi @giorgiocodazziph
Creative Director: Veronica Mazziotta @veronicamazziotta
Hair Stylist: Alessandro Squarza @GreenApple Agency @scoobyhair
MUA: Giovanni Iovine @GreenApple Agency@gioiovine
MUA Assistant: Alessandra Macrì @alessandra.huAssistant
Photographer: Andrea Cicchetti@andre.cicchetti_photographer
Models:
Faustina Cosmas @monstermanagement @fausticosma
Ilse Roffel @Elitemodelmanagement@ilseroffer
You may also read
LA SETTIMA ARTE
THE SEVENTH ART The reinterpretation, through fashion, of posters of some of the films that have ent
THE HIDDEN POWER OF WOMEN
THE HIDDEN POWER OF WOMEN Stories of metamorphosis FEBRUARY 2024 – Sixth sense “With a defea
A ROOM OF OUR OWN
A ROOM OF OUR OWN The Rown Club, where women team up FEBRUARY 2024 – Sixth sense “The na